When it comes to new flooring -- or any other home renovation or addition -- the universal bottom line is that homeowners want something low-maintenance. Some of us, however, become overly ambitious (albeit with the best intentions) with the maintenance of our floors. Maybe we're just not aware that they're easy to take care of. That was certainly the case in one scenario about which I was told: The homeowners, a married couple, were out of town and recruited one set of grandparents to housesit. Grandpa thought he'd do them a favor and decided to apply polyurethane to the wood floors. Only he forgot to sweep first. It seems his faithful dog left tufts of black fur on the floors, which were then lacquered down to the surface underneath a sticky layer of polyurethane -- which didn't belong on the oak floor in the first place. The truth is, Grandpa didn't need to try so hard. A little paint thinner or even water and a touch of mild detergent would have brought back the shine. And of course, sweeping is advised before you begin. If you're preparing to install new floors in your home, you'll want to consider a few pros and cons first. Most homeowners are willing to sacrifice some degree of aesthetics for wearability But it's not necessary. It is possible to have your cake and eat it, too. Here's a look at the major varieties of flooring and what comes with the territory for each:

Wood

Wood never goes out of style. As the oldest variety of flooring material, it's also one of the most durable and most popular. And 90 percent real estate agents agree that wood floors increase the price that a home may command -- and cause a home to sell faster. It figures, because wood is low-maintenance -- much lower than Grandpa would have guessed. Vacuuming, occasional washing, and yes, sweeping usually enough to remove spot stains. But if you're looking for all-over clean, paint thinner is best. Although it's best to avoid water, you can use it in moderation. The key here is moderation. Far too many homeowners have learned the hard way that dropping buckets-full of water onto their floors causes buckling, warping, swelling, or all of the above. A well-squeezed sponge and some mild detergent. Paint thinner and detergent both carry the risk of dulling the wood's finish, but that problem may quickly be resolved to some degree using a dry cloth to buff the floor. Some sheen may be restored, but don't count on all of it. Waxing is considered unnecessary.

Where should you put a wood floor? Minus the bathroom, just about anywhere -- even in the kitchen. And to prevent frequent clean-ups, place an area rug underneath your kitchen table. Wood floors have endured the test of time and will continue to do so. Many of them have lasted for a century or more, living longer than any other type of flooring minus ceramic, clay tile, and slate, because they can withstand sanding at least three times if not more. No other flooring material can give you that guarantee.

Online home maintenance resource HouseNet lists the following spot-specific strategies for cleaning wood floors:

1. Dark spots: Clean spot and surrounding area with medium steel wool and mineral spirits. Apply household vinegar with rag and allow to sit for a few minutes. If the spot lightens, repeat the treatment. If not, then apply a 50 percent mixture of household bleach and water. If this does not lighten the spot, try wood bleach (oxalic acid). Apply the bleach to the center of the spot, trying not to get bleach on the surrounding wood. Several applications may be necessary. When the spot is gone, apply some vinegar to neutralize the bleach. When dry, sand the area, stain, and refinish to match the original color.

2. White marks from standing water: These marks are in the finish, not in the wood. If you remove the finish, they will disappear. To remove the marks and leave the finish, rub the mark with very fine steel wool, and apply paste wax.

3. Grease and oil: Remove excess with paper towels or newspaper. Then saturate a cloth with dry cleaning fluid, and saturate the stain, checking every few minutes.

4. Mold or mildew: Dampen a rag with household bleach, and wipe up stain. Prevent it from happening again by providing proper ventilation that eliminates damp, stagnant air.

5. Wax or chewing gum: Harden the wax or gum by placing ice cubes in a plastic bag on top of the spill. Wait a couple of minutes, then scrape away the material with a plastic spatula, and recoat the floor with floor polish.

Resilient tiles

Yesterday, it was linoleum. Today, it's resilient tiles made of vinyl. While initially they were made of troublesome asbestos, rubber, and vinyl-asbestos, these tiles have evolved, and vinyl now rules. Vinyl is not only easy to install; it wears well and may even be placed over linoleum or sheet vinyl, provided the surface is clean and dry. Each tile is 12 inches square, and self-adhesive tiles such as "Peel & Stick" are good candidates for do-it-yourselfers. Once installed, vinyl resilient tiles wear so well that you don't need to place rugs on top of them.

Sheet vinyl

This material, made of one-piece vinyl, remains the most popular choice for kitchens and bathrooms. As with vinyl resilient tiles, protective rugs aren't required, but sheet vinyl carries one disadvantage: Most sheet vinyls are embossed, containing grooved patterns that trap and hold dirt. And it seems that no matter how hard you scrub, the dirt won't go away. Home maintenance experts recommend applying a cleaning solution to the tile and letting it sit for between two and five minutes, which allows the dirt to dissolve. Then scrub and rinse.

Ceramic and other hard tiles

Homeowners are overlooking the echo factor in record numbers. Ceramic and its sisters -- quarry, marble, granite, and slate -- are extremely popular choices for kitchens. Ceramic tile wears very well and requires little maintenance aside from sweeping and occasional wiping with a damp sponge. Glazed and skid-resistant glazed tiles are available, as well. If you're installing ceramic tile yourself, beware: While it's a realistic do-it-yourself project, your working surface must be an even one. If your floor has any irregular features that make it uneven, large tiles could crack or break. If you're determined regardless, use smaller tiles.

Quarry tile, an unglazed material, is a magnet for dirt and stains. Save yourself considerable grief by sealing it first, which will make the quarry stain-resistant. Despite being harder and denser, marble tile is similar in to quarry in nature with respect to stain absorbency and should be sealed, as well. Granite tiles are actually harder and denser than marble, and while they manage to fight off most stains, you'd be well-advised to resist the possibility of damage by sealing granite, too. And the same applies to slate.

Laminates

One of the latest trends in flooring, plastic laminates resists most scratches and usually is warranted for 15 years. If you do scratch plastic laminate floors, however, you'll have to live with it; plastic laminate cannot be sanded or refinished in any manner.

Today's manufacturers have given homeowners more flooring options than ever before. And while chances are good that the option you choose will provide you with many years of low-maintenance beauty and durability, just remember: If you hire a housesitter, tell him not to touch your floor while you're gone.