Martha's Vineyard is a fat cat that's been let out of the bag, for better or worse. Once quiet, secluded, and a popular vacation retreat for New Englanders, the island now is enjoying an unprecedented boom in tourism -- and real estate -- in part fueled by President Clinton's yearly visits here. Located three miles off the coast of southern Massachusetts -- a 45-minute ferry ride from Cape Cod -- the island also has become a place to be and be seen, a haven for such celebrities as the Kennedy clan and the late Princess Diana. While this trend has crowded the Martha's streets and pumped dollars into local businesses, the island's fate is bittersweet. The secret's out, and locals have mixed opinions about that. But for those locals who rent out rooms in their homes, and for Realtors who work on Martha's Vineyard, life is good -- rents and asking prices continue to grow steadily.

While it's still big as a summer resort, Martha's Vineyard has convinced many of its visitors to rent houses for extended periods and eventually become property owners. What's keeping them here? After all, as one former island resident puts it, "If you sneeze, your neighbor knows about it." But that's just fine for a growing number of relocators who seek a more quiet existence -- and a permanent vacation from reality, says Realtor Ed Pierce of Century 21 Island-Wide Realty. "It's not the real world," says Pierce, who came here 18 years ago from Falmouth, Mass. "It's ambiance. It's a sea coastal atmosphere. There's no bump-and-grind life here, no hustle and bustle. But I don't find it claustrophobic."

Martha's Vineyard, 122 square miles large, is actually comprised of six towns -- Vineyard Haven/Tisbury, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown on the "down" island; West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Gay Head on the "up" island -- all with their own respective governments. The island's total population throughout the year stands at approximately 14,000. Come summertime, however, the population swells to around 110,000, Pierce says. Teachers on summer hiatus flock here in large numbers, and families are attracted by low crime rates, a wealth of recreational opportunities, a taste of history, and the chance to see architectural anomalies like lighthouses (the island has five of them). Summertime income is the mainstay of islanders; Pierce says without it, chances are good people couldn't afford to live here.

Real estate, made up almost exclusively of single-family homes, ranges anywhere from $140,000 up to $4.5 million and $5 million, Pierce says. "It's gone up steadily, but it hasn't shot up," he adds. "It's a very active market. There are always people coming and going. There's a lot of selling; more people are coming to be here year-round." Has President Clinton's fancy for the island, as well as Princess Diana's visits (rumor has it the late princess visited the island at least three times, and islanders say she was considering buying property here), fueled interest in Martha's Vineyard real estate?

"It's [celebrity visits] done its good," Pierce says. "It's gotten us away from Ted Kennedy and the reputation he's bestowed upon us." Short-termers are attracted to the island's many B&Bs and inns, while renters rely on rented rooms or townhouses situated within larger single-family homes.

Edgartown, the Island's first colonial settlement, has been the county seat since 1642. This seaport village has been carefully preserved from the early 19th century, when whaling captains built Greek Revival-style homes that still stand today and give the town its timeless character. A stroll along North Water Street reveals a row of captains' houses sporting forgotten architecture, like widow's walks. While you'll no longer find the tall ships whose masts once peaked over island rooftops, you will find an abundance of yachts in Edgartown. In fact, the town is considered one of the world's greatest yachting centers. On South Water Street sits a pagoda tree brought in its infancy from China by Capt. Thomas Milton in the early 19th century. Located just beyond is the former home of Capt. Valentine Pease, shipmaster of the vessel on which Herman Melville made his only whaling voyage. Felix Neck, located about three miles outside the center of town, is a 200-acre piece of land owned by the Massachusetts Audubon Society which encompasses several walking trails and a year-round program of wildlife management and conservation education for all age groups.

Of course, people flock to Martha's Vineyard for its beaches -- and they don't leave disappointed. Although Edgartown is relatively small, it boasts several public beaches, including Norton's Point; Wasque and Cape Pogue on Chappaquiddick, both popular spots for bluefish and bass fishermen; Lighthouse Beach; and Bend-in-the-Road Beach.

Gay Head, Massachusetts' only community which in the 20th century continues to maintain its predominantly Indian history, is famous for its clay cliffs which stand in a series of odd formations and trail down to the edge of the sea. The cliffs tell the tale of Gay Head's rich history: They once marked the homeward leg for the town's Indian and Yankee fishermen and whalers. Today, an abundance of fossils derived from these cliffs appeal to history buffs, and art lovers purchase pottery made from clay taken from the cliffs.

For those who are drawn to the island's surreal, bubble-like quality, there's little need to leave Martha's Vineyard anymore. The island is self-reliant, with a 100-bed hospital, long-term-care nursing facility, several schools up to the eighth-grade level, and a regional high school. But for those who crave some occasional hustle and bustle, the Steamship Authority runs year-round ferry service -- for both passengers and their cars -- between the Vineyard and Woods Hole, Mass. In the summertime, independent ferries seek to get a piece of the profitable action and offer their own services.

And for those who really want to see if their neighbors notice when they sneeze, the smaller and even more self-contained island of Nantucket is approximately 10 to 12 miles from Chappaquiddick. On a clear day, you can spot Nantucket's radio towers from Martha's Vineyard.

Perhaps the most compelling reason to stay on the island, however, is its views. No matter where you stand on Martha's Vineyard, you're just five to 10 minutes from the shore. And regardless of where you hang your hat here, you're going to enjoy a view that seldom a city lover can resist. And besides, isn't reality overrated?

Published: March 11, 1998

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