New Orleans, the United States' second-largest port, is shrouded with an air of mystery. Take, for instance, Mardi Gras, an annual festival which many consider to be one of the city's defining qualities. While many are eager to attend the party in the streets, few of us really know the significance behind Mardi Gras; nor do we really know that much about one of the South's most beautiful and historical cities.

New Orleans got its start in 1803, when then-President Thomas Jefferson paid Napoleon $15 million in order to gain control of the port from the French. Napoleon must have been in a generous mood. Jefferson got quite a bargain for his $15 million; Napoleon threw in the greater Louisiana Territory, as well.

Best known as "The Big Easy," New Orleans has been called the birthplace of jazz. Rich in culture, the city contains not only a wealth of musical offerings, but also outdoor shopping, world-renowned Creole cuisine, and of course, Mardi Gras each February or March.

Neighborhoods

New Orleans, like most cities, is divided into several neighborhoods, each with their own distinct flavor. Among them: the French Quarter (also called Vieux Carre), New Orleans' first neighborhood which contains the ever-popular Bourbon Street; Bywater; Faubourg Marigny; Faubourg St. John; Treme; The Central Business District (CBD); Central City; Uptown; Mid City; Gentilly; Seventh Ward; Ninth Ward; New Orleans East; The West Bank; Da Parish -- St. Bernard; Plaquemines Parish; and East Jefferson, comprised of Metairie, Kenner, Harahan. Taking a look at these names, one thing is clear: New Orleans hasn't lost touch with its roots. And that's precisely the reason tourists keep coming back for more. Among New Orleans' more popular streets is Frenchmen Street, located in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood in the French Quarter, which is home to jazz, reggae, and salsa clubs. Hippies, hippie wanna-bes, music lovers, and the merely curious gather at these clubs to listen to music and poetry, creating an unbeatable people-watching atmosphere.

Attractions:

While you're in New Orleans, it's absolutely mandatory that you sample the city's regional cuisine. Foremost among those culinary offerings are café au lait and beignets, deep-fried dough dusted with sugar or powdered sugar. The combination of caffeine and sugar gives any tourist the supercharge necessary for an all-day exploration of The Big Easy. If you really want to soak up all that is New Orleans, walking is the preferred mode of transportation.

Among the city's attractions are Audubon Zoo, which includes an alligator-filled swamp; Beauregard-Keyes House, a well-preserved 19th-century mansion and garden (landscaped to resemble the pattern of a sun) on Chartres Street which, during the 1940s, was restored by author Frances Parkinson Keyes; the 1,500-acre City Park, home of the New Orleans Museum of Art, a botanical garden, and man-made lagoons; and the French Market, a historic district of restored buildings located along Decatur and North Peters streets which has been converted into various restaurants, specialty shops, cafes, and a flea market. The city's educational institutions include Tulane and Loyola universities.

When you've had enough of walking, give the Canal Street Ferry a try. The ferry crosses the Mississippi River, heading to Algiers Point, and leaves in 20-minute intervals from the Canal Street terminal. Or check out the famous New Orleans Streetcar, which traverses the Central Business District, Uptown, and the Garden District.

Tourists and relocators, take note: New Orleans weather may be a bit harsher than you'd expect. From May through October, you're likely to find hot, humid temperatures here, and between the months of June and October, residents are hit with the double whammy of hurricane season, as well. Spring temperatures tend to be a bit friendlier and less sticky. In April, the French Quarter plays host to the French Quarter Festival, a weekend of music and entertainment including fireworks and the world's largest jazz brunch.

And in case you're wondering what Mardi Gras really is, it's also called "Fat Tuesday," the one-day culmination of the city's carnival season. And what does the carnival signify? It's a borrowed Latin term ("carnivale," which means "farewell to flesh"). The annual "season of merriment" begins January 6, also known as Twelfth Night (the feast of the Epiphany) and officially ends at midnight on Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras). During the carnival season, approximately 750,000 king's cakes are consumed in New Orleans. King's cakes are baked with small plastic dolls inside them. The lucky recipient of the piece of cake containing the doll is crowned "king," a title which also bestows upon him or her the duty of either baking the next cake of throwing the next party.

This annual carnival season marks the fun before the fast, so to speak. Lent follows soon after and is usually marked by such customs as the elimination of meat from one's diet on Fridays, occasional fasting, and the giving up of various pleasures to demonstrate reverence to God.

Which such colorful traditions and rich history, it's easy to see why New Orleans is a favorite not only among Southerners, but also well-traveled tourists and relocating families. For more information about The Big Easy, head to: New Orleans from A to Z

Published: September 10, 1998

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