Imagine a place where surfing is the official pasttime, the quiet streets are lined with exclusive boutiques, where outdoor cafes have decks that overlook the Pacific, and where evening commuters pull over for a glimpse of the setting sun. If you've grown up in a landlocked region, a place like La Jolla (pronounced "La Hoya"), California, is hard to imagine. But it does exist. This magnificent town has more than 13 miles of coastline, long stretches of sandy beaches, hidden coves (including the 350-foot-high La Jolla Cove), and surrounding mountains. It's truly one of the United States' most beautiful destinations ... a seaside town in southern California where, as you gaze on a seemingly endless horizon, you can feel your stresses melting away.

La Jolla is located slightly north of San Diego and is a quick drive from the city. This coastal town is situated at the base of Mount Soledad and near Torrey Pines State Park.

The origin of La Jolla's name is unclear. Explorer Frank T. Botsford, who landed here in 1886, was awestruck at the beauty of this region. Two months later, he purchased more than 400 acres of surrounding pueblo lands which at that time were already named "La Jolla Park." Historians only know that "La Jolla," when translated, means either "the jewel" or "hole in the mountains," the Indian translation.

At first glance, it may appear that La Jolla's primary focus on cosmopolitan shopping and tourism. While those two elements certainly are important, the town also is known for its educational and research institutions -- most notably the nearby University of California at San Diego and the Scripps Clinic and Research Foundation. Among La Jolla's residents are Nobel Prize winners, celebrities, and acclaimed artists and authors.

La Jolla's beaches are, of course, its primary draw for tourists and even a large percentage of its residents. One of the best aspects of the area is that beachcombers may choose from secluded strips of beach or busier public beaches. Going from north to south down the coast, you'll find Torrey Pines State Beach, Black's Beach, La Jolla Shores, La Jolla Cove, Boomer's, Seal Rock, Children's Pool/Casa Cove, Marine St. Beach and the appropriately named WindanSea Beach. Taking after nearby San Diego, at which the popular series "Baywatch" has been filmed in part, La Jolla's beaches attract the TV and movie industries, as well as the fashion industries. On occasion, you'll spot a swimsuit photo shoot in session.

With a mild climate year-round and average water temperatures (at shoreline) of 55 degrees in the winter and 71 in the summer, La Jolla is much loved by recreation and fitness lovers. Sitting on the beach and watching people of every background and interest stroll by is probably the town's second-most popular pasttime after surfing.

The town's recreation, of course, centers around its location on the Pacific. Among the highlights of La Jolla's annual lineup of events is the La Jolla Rough Water Swim held each September. Buoys have been established around La Jolla Cove so that swimmers may practice throughout the year. The area is reserved strictly for swimming; boats are prohibited. The La Jolla Swim Club also practices here.

A trip to La Jolla should include a visit to the La Jolla Underwater Park & Ecological Reserve, an aquatic santuary established in 1970 by the San Diego Council of Divers. Within the reserve, some of California's most fascinating marine life is allowed to flourish, unharmed by man or animal. Swimmers, scuba divers and snorkelers come here from afar to examine nature at its purest.

According to La Jolla Realtor Peter Toner, many homes in La Jolla attempt to bring the outdoors indoors, due to the region's spectacular landscape and climate. Construction is predominantly timber-framed, Toner says, and most homes have exteriors made of either stucco or timber siding. While shingle roofs remain common, Spanish tile roofs are gaining popularity. Basements are very rare. (In La Jolla, there's little reason to build a room that has no window.) Home prices here can range anywhere from expensive (for example, $475,000 for a 2,600 square-foot, four-bedroom home) to staggering (a whopping $16 million for a 13-bedroom estate on five acres of beachfront property ... one can always dream). Condos are quite popular, as well, and range anywhere from $200,000 to $500,000, $700,000 and up.

Although La Jolla is relatively small (approximately 80,000 residents), it's not without cultural offerings. The La Jolla Playhouse, a theater founded by actors Gregory Peck, Dorothy McGuire and Mel Ferrer, has been recognized with a Tony Award. The La Jolla Chamber Music Society holds performances throughout the year during its Celebrity Series, Discovery Series, SummerFest Series and Sherwood Series. And if you're in the mood to examine a little culture at your own pace, head to one of La Jolla's many coffeehouses (this writer's favorite is The Living Room, located on Prospect Street with views of the Pacific). A morning stroll to a coffee house, a strong latte, and a view of the ocean ... life just doesn't get any better than that. The Robb Report recently listed La Jolla among the United States' top 10 best towns in which to live. It was the only town recognized in California, a state with such destinations as Carmel, Sausalito and Big Sur. That distinction speaks for itself. La Jolla beats to its own drummer, unfazed by our national drive to hurry, to schedule more in less time, to run to the next appointment without smelling the proverbial roses. This seaside town is a piece of paradise preserved.

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Published: April 26, 1999

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