Jagged peaks. Broad mesas. Dense pine forests. Cool, crisp air. Breathtaking vistas. Does it sound like the perfect vacation spot? The town that inspires you to pack up the family and get away from it all? It should. It's Crested Butte, Colorado, a place that offers the world-class skiing and off-mountain activities associated with fashionable Aspen and Vail, but without subjecting visitors to lengthy lift lines, soaring real estate prices or a proliferation of noses pointed upward.

Like bigger-ticket ski resorts, Crested Butte contains a charming village and an atmosphere that inspires relaxation. But one of the things that makes Crested Butte unique is its location. In contrast to many of Colorado's other ski resorts, which are located one after the other along stretches of highway, Crested Butte sits away at a distance, in a remote valley tucked away high in the Rockies. Visitors come here to stay rather than making it a stop among a tour of ski resorts. And yet, visitors don't have to drive great distances from airports to arrive in Crested Butte. The town is served by a nearby airport in Gunnison, Colorado, and several major airlines offer direct routes here. The compact layout of Crested Butte -- and the town's free bus service, which shuttles visitors nearly everywhere they want to go in and around town -- makes cars relatively unnecessary. Pedestrians can stroll easily throughout this quaint Victorian village, visiting shops and taking their pick among several first-class restaurants. It's little wonder why Crested Butte has been dubbed "The Last Great Colorado Ski Town."

Reminiscent of the Old West mining towns, Crested Butte, which has been designated a National Historic District, still contains remnants -- deserted mines and ghost towns -- of that time long ago. Its residents are known for their laid-back, hospitable nature. Nature rules here, and locals spend year-round outdoors. Crested Butte's downtown business district is like nothing you've ever seen. Instead of cookie-cutter office buildings, you'll find a Victorian-style town whose historic buildings have been converted for commercial use. It's Old West meets the 21st century.

Crested Butte Mountain Resort offers a great diversity of skiing -- from beginner to intermediate to daredevil advanced trails -- but without the endless lift lines associated with other ski resorts. That time saved means more skiing, of course, but also a better value for travelers. In addition, skiiers on the mountain are laid-back and accommodating of all skill levels. Visitors to bigger-name resorts occasionally will encounter and intolerance for beginners.

When the winter months come to an end, that's hardly a reason to stop coming to Crested Butte. Locals are gearing up for warmer-weather passtimes, such as mountain biking, golf, horseback riding and hiking. In particular, Crested Butte boasts superb mountain biking trails that encompass all skill levels. If you've never tried mountain biking, a visit to Crested Butte is the time to try it. As you venture along groomed trails, you'll spot deserted mining areas and ghost towns, wildflowers, streams and crystal clear lakes, not to mention breathtaking mountain and valley views.

Real estate in Crested Butte is expensive. If you're in the market for a home, you might be in for a surprise. Prices are creeping upward still, from $400,000 to more than $1 million for three- and four-bedroom homes. Some properties border on national forest land, and many offer spectacular mountain views from decks and balconies. Architectural styles are unique, from Santa Fe-style to log to stone to glass-filled contemporary. On the highest end of this real estate spectrum are the estates and ranches for sale, which, depending upon acreage, views, and of course, the homes themselves, can soar upward toward $1.5 million to $2 million or more.

Lest you think a condominium or townhome might be a more economical route, you won't get as much of a break as you might expect. Average asking prices are nearly as high as some single-family homes. Developers are building many new condominium complexes with an upscale resident in mind. Equipped with a myriad of luxury amenities, a significant percentage of such condos and townhomes are being sold for $500,000 and above.

Of course, timeshare properties and other short-term rentals are quite plentiful here, and may be your most realistic option. You can choose from condominiums or single-family homes. The summer months offer the most affordable rates. While home rentals can cost you $300, $400 or even $600-plus per night throughout the year, a condominium rented during the summer months is often an affordable choice, offering a per-night cost either comparable to or cheaper than a hotel room.

Whether your budget limits you to a brief stay in Crested Butte, or you've got permanent residency in your plans, this mining town-turned ski town will charm you with its wildflowers in the summer, its skiing in the winter, and its warm hospitality year-round.

Published: April 3, 2000

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