The earliest settlers in Monterey, California, perhaps were influenced to remain there after viewing the coastline to the south. Rough, rolling and unpredictable, this stunningly beautiful land was a formidable challenge for any ship. The Spanish sailors nicknamed the area "El Sur Grande" ("Big South"), from which the permanent derivative "Big Sur" came. While Big Sur was treacherous, it was intriguing, and it wasn't long before settlers assumed the challenge of exploring the region. It wasn't long before tourists did the same.

Today, Big Sur, a 90-mile stretch along Calfornia's legendary Highway 1, retains the aura it did during those early days. Its pristine coastline is one of California's most scenic offerings. The surrounding geography is diverse, incorporating sandy beaches, rugged mountains, dense redwood forests and, of course, breathtaking vistas -- the best of which come courtesy of Highway 1. Big Sur is located between Los Angeles and San Francisco, a position which makes it a convenient stop along any traveler's route.

Big Sur actually refers to more of a region than it does a city. And this is one of the most beautiful regions in the United States. Along this 90-mile stretch lies San Simeon (at the southern end of Big Sur), and at its northernmost location lies the unforgettable town of Carmel. Upon arrival in Big Sur, you've hit a gold mine of natural beauty. In such a setting, it's almost inconceivable that you'd do anything other than hike and gawk at the views. Nevertheless, the region offers a tremendous variety of opportunities for the outdoor enthusiast, including surfing, fishing, swimming, scuba diving and camping. One mandatory experience for any visitor is a whale watch. Gray whales migrate through the Big Sur region from fall through late spring. Local companies offer boating excursions that allow tourists to get up close and personal with these flirtatious gentle giants. Humpback whales, bald eagles, condors and sea otters also call Big Sur their home. For those seeking complete relaxation, try one of three hot springs in the area: Sykes Hot Springs, the springs at Esalen Institute, or at Tassajara Zen Center, located in the heart of Big Sur's rugged wilderness (you can reach the center via an 18-mile hike or by car, through Carmel Valley).

As you approach Big Sur along coastal Highway 1, you'll be transported to another state of mind. If you can pull yourself away long enough, you'll notice that the buildings along the side of the road are many, but hidden by the dense forests. Many of them are either quaint bed and breakfasts or upscale restaurants. In particular, the Rocky Point Restaurant, located just south of Carmel, is revered for its excellent views of the coastline. While you're traveling along the highway, you'll want to make a few stops in order to fully enjoy Big Sur. Your "must-see" list should include the historic Point Sur Lighthouse, which sits on a piece of land that juts out into the Pacific. As you continue your drive, you'll enter Big Sur Valley, which, in a sense, is "downtown" Big Sur (a loose term for this small, charming town). It's here that you'll find the lucky residents who can afford the region's high-priced lifestyle. You'll also find restaurants, retail shops, a grocery store or two, and an occasional pub.

If you're planning an overnight stay in Big Sur, you can choose from world-class resorts, bed-and-breakfast accommodations, or opt for a rustic cabin, instead. Cabins often represent a more affordable option for travlers. Most cabins contain scenic decks, fireplaces for those cool, crisp evenings, and many have kitchens, as well. Of course, if you really want to experience Big Sur, you can pitch a tent, and camp on your own. Looking for the perfect spot? Head to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. If money is no object, two spectacular options for the discerning traveler are the Ventana Country Inn Resort (containing some suites with private hot tubs in the surrounding redwood forests); and the Post Ranch Inn, with commanding views of the Pacific coastline.

A move to Big Sur is a big dream. Residential real estate prices are soaring at record levels. This is, after all, just a stone's throw from the San Francisco Bay Area, which bears the title of the country's most expensive real estate market. Most real estate is situated in nearby Carmel Valley, Monterey and Pebble Beach. Locals don't bat an eye at home prices that reach well into the millions. What do you get for those prices? In terms of amenities and space, you won't get what you expect. What you will get, however, is the most beautiful views you can imagine, and most important, the promise of a huge asking price (which you'll probably receive with minimal difficulty) when you ultimately decide to sell. Even the most modest accommodations are priced at $400,000, $500,000 and above.

While Big Sur is likely to remain out of reach for many of us struggling working stiffs, it represents the dream. We can certainly visit the region on occasion and dream of retirement here. If it's ever within your means to settle in Big Sur -- even in a fixer-upper -- it's a worthwhile investment that will pay huge dividends later. With a natural backyard like this one, Big Sur has a built-in insurance policy guaranteed to keep property values as high as its vistas.

Published: April 17, 2000

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