With the arrival of October, we're now in the middle of what is truly the loveliest season of the year - for those of us who are lucky enough to live in a region annually blessed by fall foliage. Already, the leaves on trees throughout New England are beginning to exhibit the telltale signs of autumn, and within a matter of weeks, they'll reach their full glory. Brilliant hues of red, orange and yellow will seem to explode from trees. Canada's tiniest province, Prince Edward Island, witnesses this dazzling display each year, and it only adds to the beauty of the island's quaint, coastal scenery.

What's interesting about Prince Edward Island's scenery is that its trees are relatively new. The island embarked on a major reforestation effort nearly 50 years ago because earlier generations had cleared the land to construct their farms and expand the island's shipbuilding industry, one of the main contributors to the local economy. The 1950s reforestation project introduced new varieties of trees to the island's landscape.

Peaceful, leisurely and perhaps even a bit sleepy, Prince Edward Island (often shortened to "PEI") is perhaps best known as the inspiration for author Lucy Maud Montgomery's legendary series Anne of Green Gables. Lovers of the series and of the sea travel to Prince Edward Island every year to experience this idyllic coastal setting. Located off Canada's eastern coast in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Prince Edward Island is situated among a cluster of other provinces: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Quebec and Newfoundland. Approximately 135,000 people call the island their year-round home.

Despite its rural surroundings, Prince Edward Island has a diverse and thriving local economy. Agriculture and tourism are perhaps its two largest sectors, but following closely behind are aerospace, information technology, life sciences, manufacturing, food development and film/television/new media, according to Prince Edward Island Business Development Inc.

Until the summer of 1997, Prince Edward Island was only accessible by ferry. The required three-hour ferry ride to reach the island kept many visitors at bay and added to the island's reputation as a remote destination. In June 1997, however, the Confederation Bridge linked Prince Edward Island to New Brunswick, Canada, and the island anticipated that a steadier flow of tourism would soon follow. It has, but Prince Edward Islanders didn't jump on the development bandwagon to keep pace. Instead, life on this quiet island has remained much the same. Visitors don't come here to be entertained. Instead, they come to enjoy nature, and so Prince Edward Island didn't need to change a thing to satisfy its suddenly larger audience.

Although the island's pace is slow, visitors can take advantage of recreation while they're here. If you've ever dreamed about walking leisurely down a county road (islanders call many of their scenic walking routes "walkabouts") or taking a bike ride through the rolling countryside, gazing at fall foliage, Prince Edward Island will bring those dreams to reality. In addition, the island offers many trails - wooded and seaside -- for hiking; golf courses of varying difficulty; and, of course, pristine beaches for summer sunbathing or autumn picnics.

Prince Edward Island receives its fair share of snow, and it often remains on the ground until late April or even early May. Ice is a common occurrence here, particularly in the nearby Northumberland Strait; residents are quite accustomed to wintertime conditions that would be considered comparably harsh when measured against the weather patterns of destinations located further south. Summertime temperatures rarely exceed the mid-60s, making the island a pleasant escape during the dog days of July and August.

Driving here can be a bit precarious, but it's worth the effort if you wish to explore the town. The island's roads are narrow and uneven, which perhaps adds to the charm of the surroundings. Roadside signs warn of "bad bumps," as opposed to the more minor ruts that jar you in your seat. Three scenic drives are worth mentioning: Blue Heron, Kings Byway and Lady Slipper. As you make your way along these unforgettable roads, you'll spot such fishing boats, lighthouses, vineyards and quaint villages, not to mention such anomalies as bottle houses, created entirely from recycled bottles (at Cap-Egmont on the Lady Slipper route).

In town, you'll find a variety of retail shops, including some with handmade arts and crafts; small-time theater and music productions; and some of the best seafood you've eaten - especially if you come from landlocked territory. It doesn't get any fresher than here. One of the island's primary specialties is lobster. It's everywhere, and you simply can't leave the island without sampling this quintessential culinary and social experience. It's messy, and it's meant to be experienced in the company of others.

You might expect Prince Edward Island's homes to be modest seaside cottages, and while you will find some homes of this style, you'll also find a sizeable inventory of large residences called "fox houses." That term is used to describe the estates built by wealthy entrepreneurs who made their fortunes courtesy of the silver fox, native to this part of the world, and used for rugs, coats and other clothing worn by upscale clientele. Home prices vary widely, depending upon whether you elect to purchase a smaller-sized cottage or other modest residence, a farm or a large home on waterfront property (available parcels of land are plentiful). Speaking of waterfront property, PEI offers some of the most spectacular views from its unspoiled land. When you begin to research asking prices, your first impression is likely to be sheer disbelief. Could a home really be priced at $50,000? You ask yourself. What about that waterfront lot for $7,500? Don't pack your boxes just yet. That's Canadian currency, just in case you forgot.

Some real estate sites don't print that little reminder, so remember not to be confused by the dollar signs and prices that appear rock-bottom. The setting's idyllic, but the prices are realistic.

Published: October 16, 2000

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